Sometimes some novice car owners are faced with the need to replace a disk - one or more, and this task turns out to be more difficult than it looks from the outside. And no wonder: 4 * 108, 6J, ET47, Dia 63.3, R15 - what is all this ?! Let's figure it out together.
WHAT SHOULD YOU DO BEFORE YOU BUY THE DISCS?
Choosing the right rims for an existing car, along the way, sorting out all the necessary parameters.
2. WHAT DISC PARAMETERS SHOULD I CONSIDER WHEN PURCHASING?
Regardless of what kind of car you have, when choosing new wheels, you need to consider the following parameters:
- disk type;
- mounting (or landing) diameter;
- number and diameter of mounting holes (PCD);
- disk width;
- disc offset (ET);
- diameter of the central (hub) hole;
- the shape of the mounting holes;
- the presence of humps.
Let's make a reservation right away: if by this moment you have no desire to deal with all these parameters, when choosing disks, simply use the car selection service in large online stores. There you can, simply by specifying the model of your machine, get disks that are guaranteed to suit it in all respects. Well, if the determination to find out everything is still with you, then let's get started.
DISC TYPE - WHAT THEY ARE
All discs are generally divided into three types according to the type of manufacture: stamped, cast and forged. The question of choosing a particular type is a topic for a separate material, but here we will present the main differences.
Stamped rims are the cheapest: these are the same wheels you see on the base trim of budget cars, and they are usually covered with plastic decorative caps. They are made of steel and painted with enamel. Among their advantages, in addition to the lowest price, is high maintainability. The fact is that stamped discs do not break upon impact, but crumple, and subsequently they can be easily repaired. The main disadvantage of such wheels is their high weight and lack of design: this is a purely functional product.
Alloy wheels compete with stamped ones in popularity. Such discs are not made of steel, but of a lighter alloy - usually aluminum. Thanks to the manufacturing technology, alloy wheels can have a wide variety of shapes, which, combined with a lighter weight than the “stamps”, ensures their popularity. Among the disadvantages of such wheels, one can mention a higher price and lower maintainability: alloy wheels do not crumple, but crack when hit hard. Of course, the technology of welding repair and rolling has long been mastered, but it is impossible to guarantee the preservation of the original properties after repair.
Forged wheels are the highest quality and most expensive option. They are produced by hot die forging, which provides the best internal structure of the metal and, accordingly, the highest strength with the lowest weight. The downside of this method is the low prevalence of products and the high price.
In addition to the above three types, there are also so-called prefabricated disks - but this is already exotic, and we will not touch on them. In general, for the average car owner, the choice is between inexpensive but boring stamped wheels and more expensive and beautiful alloy wheels.
MOUNTING (LANDING) DIAMETER
This is quite an obvious parameter: the diameter of the circumference of the disk in inches. As a rule, it is denoted by the letter R: that is, the R17 disc has a diameter of 17 inches.
We note in particular: the letter R itself does not refer to the diameter and came from the parameters of the tires, where it is also mistakenly used in the meaning of “radius”, in reality, implying the landing diameter of the tire. In the case of the R tire, this is the marking of the radial construction of the cord, but for the disc, this marking is actually not relevant. However, the erroneous "radius" in the meaning of "diameter" and the accompanying R are so ingrained in speech that most sellers and services for selecting discs are already used by default.
The allowable rim diameters for your vehicle are listed in the owner's manuals and on stickers in the doorways - along with recommended tire pressures. When buying tires, it is worth remembering that their landing diameter must match the diameter of the disks.
It is not recommended to exceed the maximum diameter specified by the manufacturer: too large discs, in addition to potential geometric incompatibility, change the parameters of the suspension, affecting the wear of the chassis. In addition, the larger the disc and the lower the rubber profile, the less comfort promises movement on bad roads. However, changes in diameter within the limits specified in the manual, and even an inch over, as a rule, pass without significant consequences.
NUMBER AND DIAMETER OF MOUNTING HOLES (PCD)
This is the so-called “bolt pattern”: the number of holes and the diameter of the circle on which they are located (by the way, the English PCD is just the diameter of the circle, “Pitch Circle Diameter”). The number of mounting bolts can be different and increases with the growth of the mass and speed of the car: usually there are 4-6 of them, but it can be more or less (minimum 3). Most VAZ cars have a 4x98 bolt pattern, with the exception of Oka (3x98) and Niva (5x139.7), as well as new models like Largus (4x100).
Disc bolt pattern must be observed: despite the fact that some discs - for example, 4x98 and 4x100 - seem to be interchangeable, they are not. A seemingly insignificant 2 mm difference in the diameter of the circle on which the mounting holes lie will greatly affect the installation: only one of the four fasteners will be correctly tightened, and the rest will be offset from the center, causing the wheel to beat. In part, the problem can be solved by using bolts with a “floating cone” (more on them below), but in general, the use of discs with inappropriate bolt patterns should be avoided.
DISC WIDTH
This parameter is as simple as the diameter: it is the width of the wheel in inches. Usually in the parameter list it is denoted by the letter J: for example, 5.5J is a five and a half inch wide disc.
The width of the disc, as a rule, is indicated in the same places as the allowable bore diameter, along with it. In addition to the geometric parameters for a car, the width of the disk is also important when choosing tires: the tire is designed to be used with a disk of a certain width, but with some allowable error.
DISC OUTLET
Disc overhang is the distance from the mating plane of the disc attachment to the hub to the longitudinal axis of symmetry of the disc. Let's put it simply: the central axis of symmetry is the line dividing the disk in half along the width described above, and the mating plane is the point where the disk comes into contact with the hub and is screwed to it.
The offset can be positive, zero and negative: if the axis of symmetry lies closer to the car than the attachment plane, then the offset is positive, if they are on the same axis, then the offset is zero, and if the axis of symmetry is more distant from the car than the attachment plane, then positive . In other words, the longer the overhang, the deeper the disc sits in the wheel arch, and the smaller it is, the more the disc protrudes outward.
Departure is a rather important parameter: it also directly affects the operation of the suspension and wheel bearings. Incorrect offset not only increases or decreases the track, but can also cause accelerated wear on the undercarriage and bearings.
DIAMETER OF THE CENTRAL (HUB) HOLE
The diameter of the central hole is a parameter that does not need additional explanation. It is usually referred to as "Dia", "DIA" or "D" in the list of disk characteristics. This is also an extremely important indicator: if the central hole of the disc is smaller than required, the disc simply cannot be installed, and if it is larger, then centering rings will be required to center the disc on the hub.
Many people mistakenly believe that when installed, a disk with a too large center hole will center itself on the hub due to the tightening of the bolts, but this is not the case. Accordingly, the beating and vibration that do not disappear after balancing the wheels is a reason to check the coincidence of the diameters of the central hole of the disk and the hub and the presence of centering rings, if necessary.
SHAPE OF MOUNTING HOLES
The shape of the mounting holes is important in terms of the type of bolts or nuts that will be attached to the disc. As a rule, bolts and nuts for stamped discs have only a slightly conical shape of the plane adjacent to the disc when tightened, and the bolts are also noticeably shorter. How to legalize SUV tuning?
The latter is related to the minimum thickness of the stamped disk. A cast disc is noticeably thicker than a stamped one, and in addition, its mounting hole has a more pronounced conical shape, which requires the use of other fasteners. In addition to the conical, the seat of the mounting hole of some disks can be designed for the use of fasteners with a hemispherical and flat working part.
And one more thing: there are bolts with the so-called "floating cone": they allow you to partially compensate for the slight discrepancy between the PCD disc and the required parameters. The working conical part of such bolts is made in the form of a separate ring, put on the bolt, and is displaced relative to the longitudinal axis of the bolt when tightened.
AVAILABILITY OF HUMPS
Humps are protrusions on the outer surface of the disc that fix the tubeless tire to the disc. Remember the pops that are heard when the tire changer inflates the tire after mounting on the rim? This is the moment of “landing” of the tire: the bead ring of the tire sits between the hump and the rim of the disk. In fact, this indicator is listed last in our material, because at present it is practically irrelevant: almost all modern disks are designed for tubeless tires and have humps.
However, if you, for example, decide to purchase retro discs of a respectable age, please note that they may well be designed to install exclusively tube tires without humps. However, tubeless tires can be installed on them, however, the issue of her tight fit, as well as driving safety, will remain open: with insufficient tire pressure, the risk of “taking off your shoes” in a turn will be very high.
Alloy wheels are one of the most popular types of alloy wheels for both motorists and manufacturers. Such discs are not only reliable in operation, but also have the original appearance that gives individuality to any vehicle.
1. Disk options
Before buying alloy wheels for your car, you should find out and understand their parameters so that the chosen model exactly matches the brand of the vehicle.
There are the following alloy wheel parameters:
Rim Width or Seat Width (inches)- is determined by the distance between the inner sides of the side flanges of the cast disk. It is important that the fit width matches the width of the tire, as otherwise it will affect the driving performance of the vehicle and may even lead to tragic consequences.
Rim Diameter or Bore Diameter (inches)- is determined by the diameter of the annular part of the rim, but does not take into account the height of its flanges. This figure should be comparable to the inner diameter of the tire.
Mounting hole diameter (PCD), mm- the parameter is determined depending on the number of mounting holes and the distance between them. To calculate this indicator, it is necessary to multiply the distance between the holes by a factor corresponding to their number (for 3 holes, a factor of 1.155 is used, for 4 - 1.414, for 5 - 1.701). In no case should you install discs with a PCD value that differs from the normal one for each make of car, as the fastening bolts will be tightened with a warp, which will exclude proper centralization.
Central hole diameter (DIA), mm- a parameter that determines the degree of compliance of the alloy wheel with the car. This diameter should be equal to the diameter of the landing cylinder located on the vehicle hub. Matching them exactly will ensure perfect centering of the wheel. Often manufacturers, trying to make discs as versatile as possible, produce a product with a specially large diameter of the central hole. In this case, special adapter rings are used for centering.
Disk offset (ET - Germany, DEPORT - France or OFFSET - other countries), mm- is determined by the distance between the plane of the disk mating (fastening) and the plane of symmetry of the rim (an imaginary line dividing the rim exactly in the center). This parameter may be absent in the labeling of disks, as it is not mandatory. But the offset of the disk must comply with the instructions for the car, because the load on the suspension and the turning mechanism depends on it.
Number of humps- this is the number of protrusions on the rim of the disc at the landing site of the tire. They are designed to securely fix the tire beads while driving.
X-factor, mm- a conditional parameter, which is determined by the distance between the disk mounting plane and the surface of its inner part. The presence of such a space makes it possible to install a disc on a car in which the brake system protrudes beyond the mounting plane.
The parameters of alloy wheels can be found by looking at their markings. Consider an example of a marking applied to an alloy wheel: 7½ J x 17 H2 3x120 ET30 d51.7, where 7½ is the fit width of the wheel rim; J - indicates the profile of the rim flanges (in addition to this option, JJ, JK, K, B, D, P are often found in disks for cars); 17 - landing diameter of the disk; H2 - indicates the presence of humps on the rim of the disc and their number. 3x120 is the number of holes for fasteners and their location diameter (PCD). ET30 - disk offset. d51.7 is the diameter of the central hole of the disk (DIA).
2. Advantages and disadvantages of alloy wheels
Like any other product, alloy wheels have their advantages and disadvantages. Among benefits alloy wheels:
The weight of alloy wheels is approximately 15-20% less than the steel version, which helps to reduce the pressure on the vehicle's undercarriage system, add smoothness to driving, reduce shock loads on the suspension and improve performance.
Excellent thermal conductivity of the discs, which eliminates overheating of the car's brake system.
Due to the coating of the disk surface with an oxide layer, it is reliably protected from corrosion.
The original appearance and an unlimited choice of designs and molding patterns, which makes it possible for any motorist to find a wheel to his taste.
During production, high precision is observed, which ensures perfect balancing, and this reduces wear on bearings, tires, hubs and increases driving comfort.
Among shortcomings alloy wheels:
A high percentage of defects in production, as products are produced in large volumes.
High degree of brittleness (with a strong impact, alloy wheels can simply split or crack).
Unrepairability (although alloy wheel repair services exist, they are very limited and at high cost).
It is rare to find alloy wheels sold by the piece, since, basically, they are sold as a set. Therefore, if one disk breaks down, then the car owner will most likely have to buy a whole new set.
As for the cost of alloy wheels, it is impossible to attribute it to advantages or disadvantages, since it all depends on what to compare with. For example, compared to stamped wheels, the cost of casting may seem overpriced. But compared to forged options, the cost of casting is relatively affordable.
3. Countries and manufacturers
Alloy wheels are produced in many countries around the world. As for the number of casting exports to the world market, China is the leader in this area. But most of the disks produced in China are fakes and replicas of famous brands from other countries.
If we judge the reliability and originality of alloy wheels, then according to this criterion, the leaders are the USA, Italy, Germany and Japan. Consider a few examples of well-known brands from these countries that have managed to prove themselves from the best side and have received recognition from motorists around the world.
Alloy wheels production Germany:
BBS is a company whose products have already become a legend, even though it has only been operating since 1970. And she won her fame thanks to alloy wheels for motorsport. BBS products are supplied to the conveyors of such automakers as BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Ferrari, Maserati, Rolls-Royce, Jaguar and others. Retro-style discs are especially popular among customers.
ALUTEC - casting of this manufacturer, which appeared in 1996, is recognized by many experts as the strongest and lightest due to a secret production technology.
Alloy wheels production Italy:
OZ Racing is a company founded in 1971 and to this day remains one of the leaders in the development and production of alloy wheels for racing cars and stock cars. The philosophy and advantages of the products of this manufacturer lies in the experience gained in many international races (for example, Formula 1). This brand pays a lot of attention to the style and appearance of the casting.
Arcasting - founded in 2001, now the company occupies one of the leading steps in the production of alloy wheels. Under this brand, many wheels are produced with a fashionable design and impeccable quality. As for quality, in 2003 the manufacturer received the certificate of the International Organization for Standardization 9001/2001. And what else can serve as a guarantor of confidence in this company.
Alloy wheels production USA:
ADV.1 is a luxury manufacturer that only makes its products to order. This ensures a perfect fit for each individual vehicle brand. The philosophy of the brand is to move away from patterns in the design of alloy wheels and take into account the individuality of customers.
Rotiform - disc models from this manufacturer are distinguished by a futuristic design, a variety of shapes and colors. Wheels from this brand are especially popular among designers and studios that tune and “pump” cars.
Vossen is a manufacturer of exclusive alloy wheels, which for 25 years has been striving to give the motorist unsurpassed quality and unusual design. Thanks to this company, concave alloy wheels have become popular. The philosophy of the brand is in the pursuit of innovation.
Alloy wheels production Japan:
Wald International is a manufacturer specializing in tuning premium cars. Now the company is widely known outside of Japan and is one of the trendsetters in the world of tuning. Separately, the company develops entire product lines for each customer, including Bentley, Lexus, BMW, RangeRover.
Enkei - now the discs of this company, founded in 1950, are popular not only at home, but also far beyond its borders. She specializes in the production of disks for racing, even for rally, even for drifting, even for everyday driving.
4. What is the difference between cheap alloy wheels and expensive ones?
Today, the choice of alloy wheels is simply huge. Like the assortment, the range of prices for discs is huge.
The price of the disc includes the cost of production, the cost of shipping to the consumer, the trademark fee and, in some cases, the marketing component.
Sometimes, a high price is not a guarantee of quality products, as a low price is not always a guarantee of fakes and low-quality discs. Therefore, when choosing drives, we strongly recommend that you study online reviews and watch performance test videos, otherwise you may stumble upon low-quality products.
Let's try to find out the difference between expensive alloy wheels (from well-known brands, excluding the option of fakes) and cheap ones.
1. Expensive wheels are perfectly centered and have perfect geometry, which cannot be said about all cheap options, among which sometimes even curves come across.
2. Expensive discs are subject to quality control at all stages of production, so when overpaying money, the buyer can have no doubts about the quality of the product. Cheap discs are often simply poured into molds and wait for the metal to harden, which is why low quality cases are not uncommon among such products.
3. Each well-known manufacturer of expensive alloy wheels has its own alloy recipe, which has been developed and improved over the years. And in cheap models, aluminum monoalloy can be used. And he, although strong, but fragile.
4. The exterior design of expensive alloy wheels is flawless: the surface is perfectly flat, and the painting is done with high precision and using high-quality paint. In cheap versions, the paint may peel off after several trips.
5. The performance characteristics of expensive models are characterized by good resistance to external influences and shaking. Cheap options are only suitable for use on a flat surface, because otherwise, they quickly crack.
6. The time of using expensive disks is much longer (they serve for more than one decade) than cheap ones, in addition, expensive models are guaranteed without any problems.
7. Expensive discs do not harm the environment, as they are produced in compliance with all environmental regulations.
8. The image created by expensive discs cannot be compared with the image created by cheap options. A good car will look more harmoniously with expensive castings from well-known brands.
5. Nuances of choice
When choosing alloy wheels, the buyer should consider the following aspects:
Make and model of the car; Compliance of disks with the required sizes; Possible operating conditions.
The most correct decision would be to buy alloy wheels made specifically for a particular brand of car. In this case, these discs are ideal and there will be no problems with their installation. But for a motorist, this option is not always acceptable (for example, they may not like the design), so some nuances of choice should be taken into account.
Nuances of choice alloy wheels:
Before buying a casting, you need to find out in what conditions the disks will be used, since the external environment will significantly affect their safety. Harsh operating conditions lead to scratches and peeling paint.
Alloy wheels are usually made from either an aluminum alloy or a magnesium alloy, each of which has its own advantages. Aluminum is light and not susceptible to corrosion, but has low ductility, which often cracks. Magnesium is more ductile, but has other disadvantages. Which alloy to choose depends on the needs and preferences of the client.
It is worth paying attention to the design of the discs and taking into account that they will need to be washed, and the artsy forms are much more difficult to wash than simple ones.
The dimensions of the selected casting must not differ from the standard by more than 2 inches, as this will degrade the performance of the product.
For fastening the cast structure, you must not forget to choose bolts of a special length that will facilitate installation.
It must be remembered that the warranty applies only to models of alloy wheels that were selected in accordance with the instructions for the car.
Before buying, you should definitely check the availability of a quality certificate not only from the manufacturer, but also domestic.
Experts do not recommend using alloy wheels in the winter.
You should not choose the cheapest casting options.
6. What tires to put on
Typically, a motorist selects alloy wheels for an existing set of tires. But it also happens that tires need to be selected after the acquisition of cast structures.
The main rule to remember when choosing tires for wheels is that the tires must match the size of the alloy wheels and fit perfectly on them. If the tires are too big for the rims, then their operation will be problematic. And, if they turn out to be very small, then their installation will be problematic.
If the wheels are expensive and from a well-known brand, then the right decision would be to buy the same tires for them. In order not to make a mistake in choosing, we recommend visiting thematic automotive forums and sites where you can read the information available or ask your questions.
Often manufacturers of alloy wheels or distributor companies immediately recommend tires for them, and some even produce them themselves. This option greatly simplifies the life of a motorist, because it will not be necessary to bother with the issue of selection, in addition to disks, also tires.
Rims are a unique item that changes the look of a car. Often, many do not understand all the nuances, criteria and features of choosing wheels for a car.
This is due to confusion and the lack of certain knowledge and skills, because you need to choose not only beauty, but also width, reach, hole shapes, etc.
Everyone has different preferences. Everyone wants to give their own understanding of beauty, emphasize its features, remove it from the gray mass.
But desire alone is not enough. From the article you will learn how to choose wheels for a car.
Disk types
In total, in the automotive world, there are two categories of material from which car rims are made:
- steel;
- light alloy.
Steel wheels are stamped wheels and are generally a cheap and practical option. A cheap, high-quality, salable product that is equipped with factory types of wheels.
Of the pluses can be noted:
- easy recovery;
- excellent strength.
However, there are also disadvantages:
- production is not accurate;
- frequent balancing is necessary;
- big weight;
- lack of design and style.
The antipode are alloy wheels. Surpassing all parameters, pleases with the presence of a variety of image.
They are easily dyed, having many original color shades.
Precision manufacturing leaves the steel type behind, renowned for precision and heat dissipation from the brakes.
Shapes and diameter play a key role, because each set has its own uniqueness.
Alloy wheels can be:
- forged,
- cast.
Speaking about cast car wheels, one can note the granular structure of the metal.
Having traveled, on impassable roads or numerous urban terrible roads, microcracks appear, due to which the disc can simply burst.
Forged wheels are distinguished by their strong structure, so when choosing forged or alloy wheels, you should consider the road that the car will drive on.
Marking on each disc exists to determine all its technical parameters. This is very convenient and allows you to choose the right one without making a mistake.
Let's analyze all the main parameters.
Rim width
Distance in inches between the edges of the rim.
Mounting (landing) diameter
This is the size of the landing rim of the rim under the tire. In common parlance, this is the same as the radius of the disk.
Measured in inches.
Disk offset
ET - Most commonly referred to as offset or offset and is measured in millimeters. The smaller it is, the more it protrudes and vice versa.
A large reach will begin to rub against the arch, suspension or brakes.
Not respecting the offset ratio contributes to a deterioration in stability, a decrease in the effectiveness of the brakes, along with an increase in the sensitivity of control.
Location of mounting holes
PCD - the number and diameter of the location of the mounting holes. It is the most important parameter, especially in determining the number of holes.
Not all bolts and fasteners may be the same, for this the manufacturer indicates two numbers 6x120. 6 is the number of mounting bolts, and 120 is the diameter of the circumference of the mounting holes.
Bore diameter
DIA - the diameter of the mounting hole determines the diameter for landing the wheel on the hub.
The centering lug must match the wheel diameter.
These markings are the basics you need to know before buying the wheels you like.
Remember, having made the slightest mistake in the calculations or in the selection itself, you can get into a situation where the wheel itself simply does not fit in size or width.
In order to avoid such errors, carefully measure and select the parameters you need.
When purchasing alloy wheels, it is important to remember that fastening is carried out with special bolts that come with the kit or separately.
Mounting must be done carefully so as not to damage the brake pads.
The first thing to do is to check the dimensions. The problem can easily come out in touching the elements of the brake and calipers, which has a very bad effect on the ride.
Having one set of wheels has become unprofitable due to overboarding every weather season. For 3-4 such operations, you will give an amount equal to a brand new set.
With each overboarding, microcracks appear, which over time can adversely affect the operation of the car.
And not everyone likes the queue at the tire shop.
If you have any questions, complaints or want to leave your positive feedback, you can do it below! Leave your feedback and suggestions in the comments!
In the article we will talk about how to choose the right alloy wheels, what parameters you should pay attention to and what nuances there are when choosing and installing.
The content of the article:
First of all, when tuning a car, motorists immediately try to install new wheels, replacing regular wheels with alloy wheels. To date, there are many configurations and types of alloy wheels. Young motorists often put disks of this type on domestic cars, and this is true, they immediately change their appearance for the better. But the replacement process is not always so easy. It is necessary to select the size of the wheel arches, so that later it does not rub on the fender liner, the parameter that is responsible for this is considered to be the diameter.
What are cast
The material from which the discs are made is considered important. Now they are made of titanium alloy (very rarely), aluminum or magnesium alloys. Aluminum alloy wheels are among the best. Most often they can be found in expensive car dealerships. They are less susceptible to corrosion and look more attractive.
Each owner individually selects the design and color, here you can argue ad infinitum. You can pick up both in the market and in a specialized auto shop they will show you how your car will look with themes or other disks.
Disc material
Design is not the main thing when choosing, but what the element is made of has a role. According to the composition of the material they recognize:
- Cast magnesium - light, but very capricious to blows and quickly crack;
- Cast aluminum - the most optimal in terms of the combination of qualities;
- Forged aluminum - durable and lightweight;
- Forged magnesium - super strong and lightweight.
Diameter (R)
Regarding the diameter of the cast ones, you should choose the best option, it is often advised to take the same diameter as the native disks, because of this it will not rub the tire on the fender liner, it will not tear the wings when cornering, and it will not occur when the axle is loaded problems. It is customary to measure it not in centimeters, but in inches. It is allowed to take a slightly larger diameter, but then you have to take a smaller tire diameter. But given our roads, low-profile tires are not the best option, ruin the wheels faster. If an ordinary disk can be brewed, then cast ones, unfortunately, even brewing for a long time is not enough. For a couple of thousand kilometers, or until the first good hit. It will be possible to brew only with argon welding. The maximum that can be done is to roll the disk during deformation.
Departure (ET45)
In addition to the diameter, you should pay attention to the offset (ET45 - standard), the so-called distance between the plane of the disc and the plane of the disc mounting itself. For each disk, this parameter is different and can be measured from millimeters to centimeters, often referred to as OFFSET. It is worth following the recommendations for selecting this parameter. Some violate this parameter and put wider discs, this increases stability and maneuverability. But where there are pluses, there is also a minus, this will entail an increase in the load on the hub bearings, an increase, since the load on the motor will increase.
Next on the list is the PCD parameter or, in other words, the diameter of the centers of the mounting holes and their number. The store will recommend you what size will fit your car. Sometimes motorists still buy unsuitable wheels and then completely change the hub, or put special stands, this will allow you to adjust the parameters of the car to the wheels.
When installing discs, make sure that the mounting bolts are of the right size, they should not be too short or too long. If they are too short, they will be cut off at the hub. If too long, they can press and damage the brake disc or other moving parts of the wheel.
Some manufacturers indicate the DIA parameter, the diameter of the central hole of the disk (measured from the side of the mating plane, measured in mm), often they try to choose the optimal size bolts for this parameter. If the hub has not been changed, then the auto shop will immediately tell you which bolts are better to take.
Now an example of decoding the inscriptions ( specifications) of all disks. Let's take an example: J5.5x14, 4x100, ET49, DIA56.6 - this means a 5.5" wide wheel with a R14" radius, with four mounting holes on a circle with a radius of 100 mm, with an offset of 49 mm and a hub hole diameter of 56.6 mm.
It is not worth replacing alloy wheels at home in the grandfather's way, as you will immediately leave traces and damage on the discs. The first thing to do after purchase is to install and try on an alloy wheel without a tire on the hub of your car. We remove the native wheel, and install a new disk, if all the parameters are observed, then it should become like a native one the first time. After installation, move it around, it should not move, there should not be any backlash. Now we put the native wheel again and go to the service station to change the car.
At first, you should not immediately step on the gas and test new wheels, let them get used, and at the same time see how the car behaves with new wheels.
When buying, many are wondering how not to fall for a fake. I will say that only experienced specialists can determine the quality by eye, and no one in the store will allow you to test it. Usually sellers will persuade you to buy exactly what they consider the best (this is not always the case), they should not be trusted, as they are not always honest and objective. It is better to buy discs in specialized salons with a guarantee, often such salons value their reputation and will not slip low-quality goods. Do not hesitate to demand documents for discs and a certificate of quality from the manufacturer.
Pictured is LEXANI FORGED 105
Popular brands include Asanti, Lexani, Fuel, Vellano, Rucci. Prices for discs can vary from $50 to $5000-6000. For example, such an alloy wheel LEXANI FORGED 105, the cost of which starts from $ 1000, expensive sports cars are often equipped with such wheels.
Video on how to choose the right alloy wheels:
Video with tips on fitting:
1. Rim width
There is a golden rule: the width of the rim should be 25-30% less than the width of the tire profile. Let's say you're looking for a 195/70 R15 rim. The width of its profile is 195 mm. In inches, this will be 7.68 (you need to divide 195 by 25.4). Subtract 25% or 30% from this value and round the resulting number to the nearest value from the standard series. Get 5.5 inches, which is exactly the width you need for a 195/70R15 tire.
ATTENTION:
The use of both too wide and too narrow rims (relative to the width of the tire profile) is undesirable: the design profile of the tire is violated (the sidewalls are either compressed by the rim flanges or stretched on it), due to which its driving characteristics deteriorate - response to cornering, slip resistance , lateral rigidity. The permissible deviation of the rim width from the norm is 0.5 - 1.0 inches for discs with a mounting diameter up to 14 inches; and 1.0 - 1.5 inches for discs with a diameter of 15 inches or more. But it is better, of course, to take the disk exactly under the tire.
2. Disc diameter
Full range of mounting diameters for passenger cars and off-road wheels: 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21 and 22 inches. The vast majority of modern cars run on 13-, 14-, 15- and 16-inch wheels. Recently, there has been a strong trend towards an increase in the mounting diameter; cars for which 13-inch wheels are standard, for example, are being converted to 14-inch, 15 to 16, etc. This is due to the desire to use tires of low and extra low series, since their driving performance is better than high profile tires. And the lower the tire series, the less rubber in the wheel and, accordingly, more metal - after all, the outer diameter of the wheel remained unchanged. When using steel discs, the mounting diameter cannot be particularly increased - this will lead to an increase in the mass of the wheel, which is undesirable. And the use of light alloy wheels allows you to increase the mounting diameter of the disc without weighing the wheel as a whole.
3. Diameter of mounting holes Designated PCD - Pitch Circle Diameter and the number of these holes. For example, PCD100/4 - 4 holes on a diameter of 100 mm.
ATTENTION:
Since the mounting holes are made with a solid plus tolerance in diameter, you can make a mistake in choosing a PCD if it differs from the standard one by a couple of millimeters. For example, a PCD98/4 wheel is often put on a hub with a PCD100/4 (you can't distinguish 98 mm from 100 by eye). It is unacceptable. In this case, of all nuts (or bolts), only one will be fully tightened; the rest of the holes ’™ will lead away ’™ and the fasteners will remain undertightened or tightened with a warp - the fit of the wheel on the hub will be incomplete. On the move, such a wheel will ’™ beat ’ ™, in addition, nuts that are not fully tightened will unscrew by themselves.
4. Disc center hole diameter
For standard car wheels, the central hole, as a rule, is precisely fitted to the axle hub; at factories it is customary to center the wheel exactly along it - its diameter is the landing one. But if you buy a disc from a store, don't be surprised if the center hole is larger than it should be. Parts manufacturers often make a hole of obviously larger diameter and supply the disc with a set of adapter rings, which allows it to be used on different car models. The wheel in this case is centered on the PCD.
5. Wheel offset This is the distance between the longitudinal plane of symmetry of the rim and the mounting plane of the wheel. The overhang can be zero, positive (the disc hub protrudes outward relative to the middle of the rim) and negative (the hub is recessed). For each vehicle model, the offset is calculated to provide optimal stability and control of the vehicle, as well as the least load on the hub bearings. The Germans designate the departure as ET (for example, ET30 (mm) if its value is positive, or ET-30 if it is negative), the French - DEPORT, manufacturers from other countries usually use the English OFFSET.
ATTENTION:
Do not put wheels with abnormal offset on the car. Reducing the overhang makes the wheel track wider; although this slightly increases the stability of the car and gives it a stylish racing look, it also drastically overloads the hub bearings and suspension. Increase the departure, i.e. as a rule, it is impossible to narrow the track - the disc will hit the brake. Sizes of wheel bolts and nuts If you change a stamped steel disc to an alloy one, you may have to use longer bolts (or studs) than the standard ones - an alloy disc is thicker than a steel one. In addition, the old fasteners will not work if the new disk has holes, for example, for tightening on a sphere, and the bolts you have (regular) are tightened on a cone.
How to choose the right rims
When choosing a wheel, you first need to determine what wheel width is suitable for your car? This can be done according to the Tire Calculator, or according to the Table of Permissible Parameters (Ratios) of Disks, as well as using the so-called “folk” calculation method: tire tread width -” 20% = disk width For example: Tire 175 / 70R13 width 175 mm -” 20% = 140 mm Divide by 25.4 (1 inch = 25.4 mm) = 5.5 inches The width of the rim can vary within ±15% of the preferred width. In our example, we get: 5.5 inches preferred -” 10% = 5.0 inches minimum preferred size 5.5 inches + 10% = 6.0 inches maximum size vehicle manufacturer. This graphic shows a simple way to get your PCD size using a caliper. Center hub bore diameter.
ATTENTION: - the diameter of the central hole on cast or forged wheels (for example, when tuning a car) may differ from the given in the table upwards. In this case, the disks must be completed without fail with centering rings (inserts) for centering the disk when landing on the hub. The absence of these rings entails wheel runout at speeds of 80 km / h.